Tiling and grouting

Tiling a splashback or a small area is a reasonable first project, and the failures are consistent and preventable.

The surface

Which determines everything.

It must be sound, clean, dry, flat and rigid.

Tiles will not correct an uneven surface — they follow it, and the result shows every deviation.

Where a wall is uneven, it needs skimming or boarding first, which is a separate job.

Old tiles can be tiled over in some circumstances, provided they are firmly attached and the surface is prepared, though removing them generally gives a better result.

In wet areas, a suitable backing board and a tanking system are worth using, since water penetrating behind tiles causes substantial damage.

Setting out

The step that separates a good job from an obvious one.

Find the centre of the area and work outward, so that the cut tiles at each end are equal and neither is a sliver.

Establish a level horizontal line, using a spirit level rather than any existing surface, since worktops and floors are rarely level.

Fix a temporary batten along that line to support the first row, which prevents the whole thing sliding down.

Plan where the cuts fall, so that awkward cuts are in the least visible positions.

Dry-lay a section on the floor first if the pattern is complex.

Fixing

Practical points.

Use the correct adhesive for the situation — flexible for anything that moves, waterproof for wet areas, and the right type for the tile material.

Apply with a notched trowel at the correct angle, which produces ridges of consistent depth.

Work in small areas, since adhesive skins over.

Press each tile with a slight twist to bed it, and check as you go with a level and a straight edge.

Use spacers consistently.

Remove adhesive from the tile faces and from the joints before it sets, since removing it afterwards is difficult and the joints need to be clear for grout.

Cutting

The part people find intimidating.

A manual tile cutter handles straight cuts in ceramic and is inexpensive to buy or hire.

Porcelain is harder and generally requires a wet cutter.

Curves and holes need tile nippers or a hole cutter.

Measure carefully, allowing for the joint width, and cut slightly generously so the tile can be adjusted.

Eye protection is necessary, since fragments travel.

Grouting

Where the finish is made or lost.

Wait for the adhesive to set fully, generally at least a day.

Choose grout suited to the joint width and the location, with a waterproof or epoxy grout in wet areas.

Work it into the joints with a float held at an angle, covering the whole area and pressing it in.

Remove the excess diagonally across the joints so as not to pull grout out.

Wipe with a damp sponge as it begins to set, rinsing frequently, and then polish off the haze when dry.

Do not use grout in the corners or where tiles meet a bath, worktop or floor — these movement joints need flexible sealant, since grout there cracks.

Sealant

The finishing step and the one most often done badly.

Clean and dry the joint completely, removing all old sealant.

Mask both sides with tape.

Apply a continuous bead, tool it smoothly with a wetted finger or a shaping tool, and remove the tape while the sealant is still wet.

For a bath, fill it with water before sealing so the joint is at its widest, and leave it filled until the sealant has cured.

This prevents the joint tearing the first time the bath is used.

Maintenance

What keeps tiling looking good.

Seal grout in areas subject to staining, and reseal periodically.

Replace sealant when it discolours or lifts, rather than applying new over old.

Clean with products suited to the tile and grout, avoiding acid on natural stone.

And address any cracked tile or failed joint promptly, since water penetrating behind tiling causes damage that is expensive and invisible until substantial.

General information only, not professional advice. Wear eye protection when cutting, and use a professional for wet room installations and anything structural.